How to Clean Soccer Cleats: Proven Easy Steps 2026

Why Your Cleats Need Regular Cleaning

Mud ruins your touch. I've seen kids slip during breakaways because their studs were packed with heavy, dried clay from the penalty box. If your kid plays in the rain every Saturday, you already know the struggle. Clean boots last longer and perform better on the pitch.

Leaving caked mud on your footwear dries out the materials. Synthetic uppers crack. Leather stiffens and loses that premium, glove-like fit. I ruined a $250 pair of Nike Mercurials my first year playing college soccer simply by ignoring the dirt. Don't make that mistake. Taking 15 minutes after a match saves you hundreds of dollars in replacement costs over a season.

My Go-To Gear for Cleaning Soccer Cleats

You don't need a massive kit to get the job done. I've tested dozens of products over the last decade. This isn't the cheapest route, but it protects your investment. Here is exactly what I keep in my gear bag.

Item	Brand/Model Recommendation	Price Range	Why I Use It
Soft Bristle Brush	Jason Markk Premium Brush	$15-18	Soft enough for knit uppers, stiff enough for dirt.
Stiff Brush (For Studs)	Reshoevn8r Stiff Brush	$12-15	Gets packed turf pellets out of the soleplate.
Cleaning Solution	Dawn Ultra Dish Soap	$3-5	Cuts through grass stains without stripping leather oils.
Detail Brush	Standard Oral-B Toothbrush	$2-4	Perfect for tight corners around the heel counter.
Drying Towels	Chemical Guys Premium Microfiber	$10-15	Absorbs water quickly without leaving lint behind.

Step-by-Step: How to Clean Soccer Cleats After a Muddy Game

I'll be honest, this takes elbow grease. You can't just wipe them down and call it a day if you want them to look fresh. Follow this exact routine I use after weekend tournaments.

Step 1: Knock Off the Loose Dirt (2 minutes)

Do this outside. Grab the heels and clap the soles together firmly. You want to dislodge the heavy chunks of mud and turf pellets. Next, take your stiff brush and aggressively scrub the soleplate. Get right into the crevices between the studs. If you play on artificial turf, those little black rubber pellets will get stuck everywhere. A stiff brush pops them right out.

Step 2: Mix Your Cleaning Solution

Fill a small bowl with warm water. Aim for about 85°F to 90°F. Hot water warps the glue holding the soleplate to the upper. Add exactly one teaspoon of Dawn dish soap. Swirl it around until you get a nice layer of suds on top. You only need the suds and a tiny bit of the liquid. Dipping the brush directly into concentrated soap leaves a sticky residue that attracts more dirt later.

Step 3: Scrub the Uppers and Soles (5-7 minutes)

Dip your soft bristle brush into the suds. Shake off the excess water. Scrub the uppers in tight, circular motions. Start from the toe box and work your way back to the heel. I recommend this because it pushes the dirt away from the mesh or leather pores rather than grinding it deeper.

For stubborn grass stains on white cleats, let the soapy suds sit on the stain for 3 minutes before scrubbing again. Use the toothbrush to clean the stitching and the tight gap where the upper meets the soleplate. This gap collects the most grime. Rinse your brush frequently in a separate bowl of clean water.

Step 4: Wipe and Air Dry (12-24 hours)

Take a damp microfiber towel and wipe away all the soap. Don't rinse the boots under the tap. Submerging them waterlogs the internal padding, which leads to blisters and terrible odors. Once the soap is gone, dry them with a fresh towel.

Stuff the toe box with crumpled newspaper or paper towels. This absorbs internal moisture and helps the boot keep its shape. Leave them in a well-ventilated room at room temperature. Never put them near a radiator or in direct sunlight. Heat dries out the materials and causes severe cracking.

Material Matters: Adjusting Your Technique

Not all boots are built the same. Treating a leather boot like a synthetic one will ruin it. Here is how I handle the three main materials on the market.

Kangaroo and Calfskin Leather

Boots like the Adidas Copa Mundial or Nike Premier rely on natural leather. Leather is skin. It needs moisture. After cleaning and drying, you must apply a leather conditioner. I use Lexol Leather Conditioner ($12). Rub a thin layer over the upper with a clean cloth. Let it absorb for 15 minutes, then buff off the excess. Skip this step, and your leather will dry out, crack, and tear within a single season.

Synthetic Uppers

Synthetic materials are incredibly forgiving. Models like the Puma Future or Adidas Predator Elite use engineered plastics and meshes. You can scrub these a bit harder. If you have deep scuff marks from opposing players' studs, a magic eraser works wonders. Just dampen the eraser and gently rub the scuff. Don't press too hard, or you'll dull the finish.

Knit and Flyknit Collars

Knit collars provide a great lockdown but snag easily. Never use a stiff brush on knit material. I use a soft sponge or a dedicated knit brush. Dab the soapy water onto the stain instead of scrubbing aggressively. If a snag happens, don't pull the thread. Carefully trim it with small scissors.

Dealing with Smelly Cleats

If your kid plays in the rain and leaves their boots in a sealed gym bag, you know the smell. It's awful. Bacteria thrive in dark, damp environments.

First, ensure the boots are 100% dry. Moisture is the enemy. Once dry, sprinkle two tablespoons of baking soda inside each boot. Let it sit overnight. The baking soda absorbs the odor-causing moisture. Dump it out the next morning.

For persistent smells, I drop two dry Lipton tea bags inside each boot after every game. The tannins in the tea actually kill the bacteria causing the stink. It sounds weird, but it works better than those expensive aerosol sprays that just mask the smell with fake lavender.

Mistakes to Avoid at All Costs

I've seen players destroy their gear by taking shortcuts. Avoid these common traps.

• Using the washing machine: The agitation will rip the studs right off the soleplate. The heat will melt the internal glue.
• Using bleach: Bleach breaks down the structural fibers of synthetic mesh and turns white leather yellow.
• Drying with a hairdryer: Concentrated heat warps the plastic soleplate, ruining your traction and balance.
• Leaving them in the car trunk: Summer car trunks reach 140°F. This bakes the leather and shrinks the synthetic uppers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I put soccer cleats in the washing machine?

You should never put soccer cleats in the washing machine. The agitation and heat will warp the soleplate and destroy the glue holding the upper to the studs. Hand washing with a soft brush is the only safe method to preserve their structural integrity.

How do I get grass stains off white cleats?

Mix a paste of baking soda and warm water, then apply it directly to the grass stain. Let the paste sit for 10 minutes to break down the chlorophyll. Scrub gently with a soft toothbrush, then wipe clean with a damp microfiber cloth.

How often should I clean my soccer boots?

You should wipe off loose mud and dirt immediately after every single match or training session. A full deep clean with soap and water is only necessary once a week or after playing on exceptionally muddy or wet pitches.

Can I use bleach on my cleats to make them white again?

Do not use bleach on any part of your soccer cleats. Bleach degrades the adhesives holding the boot together and weakens synthetic fibers. Stick to mild dish soap or specialized sneaker cleaners to safely brighten white uppers.