How to Clean a Tanning Bed: The Proven 2026 Guide

By Elena Rodriguez · September 25, 2025

Why Proper Tanning Bed Cleaning Matters

I've maintained my own home tanning room for eight years. In my experience cleaning acrylics for a commercial salon before that, I've ruined a few beds. You don't want to make those same mistakes. Tanning bed acrylic is highly specialized. It blocks UVB rays but lets UVA light pass through to your skin.

Stop. Look closely at your bed. See those tiny micro-scratches? That's from using the wrong towels. Standard glass cleaners destroy the UV coating. When I first bought my used Sunvision 24-bed off Facebook Marketplace for $800, the acrylic was completely clouded from years of the previous owner spraying cheap ammonia-based glass cleaner directly onto the surface. It took me three weekends to fix it. I'll be honest, buffing out deep scratches takes serious elbow grease and your arms will ache the next day.

If you have friends borrowing your home salon setup and they don't respect the rules, the acrylic degrades fast. Sweat, tanning lotions, and body oils bake into the plastic at 104°F. This creates a hazy film that blocks UV rays. You'll end up tanning longer to get the same color. That wastes electricity and ages your skin. Let's fix that.

The Exact Supplies You Need

Don't just grab whatever is under your kitchen sink. You need specific tools to protect the acrylic polymers. This isn't the cheapest option, but it actually works and saves you from buying a $400 replacement acrylic sheet.

Lucasol One Step Cleaner: This is my daily sanitizer. It costs about $25 a gallon and kills bacteria without stripping the acrylic. I buy it in bulk.
Australian Gold Tanning Bed Cleaner: A great alternative if you prefer a fresh scent. It runs about $15 for a 16oz spray bottle.
Novus Plastic Polish Kit (1, 2, and 3): This three-part system is mandatory for monthly deep cleaning. The kit costs around $28 on Amazon. It removes haze and fills micro-scratches.
High-GSM Microfiber Cloths: I use 3M brand 300-GSM cloths. Paper towels contain wood pulp that scratches the surface. Buy a 12-pack for $18.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%): Only use this for cleaning the metal tracks and exterior vinyl. Never put this on the acrylic.

My 5-Minute Daily Sanitizing Routine

You must clean the bed immediately after every session. Waiting allows oils to harden. Here is my exact step-by-step process.

Cool Down: Wait exactly three minutes after your session. The acrylic needs to drop below 95°F so the cleaner doesn't evaporate instantly.
Mist Lightly: Grab your Lucasol spray. Mist the surface lightly. You want to apply just enough moisture to lift the oils without letting the liquid pool in the seams.
Wipe in Straight Lines: Take a dry microfiber cloth. Wipe from the top of the bed straight down to the bottom. Never wipe in circles during the daily clean. Circular motions create swirl marks over time.
Flip and Buff: Flip the cloth to a dry side. Buff the acrylic until it squeaks. If you see streaks, your cloth is too dirty. Grab a fresh one.
Clean the Armrests: Spray a tiny bit of cleaner on the cloth, not the armrest. Wipe down the plastic grips. Sweat pools here and causes yellowing.

When you're prepping to sell your house and the home salon needs to look pristine for the real estate photos, this daily habit makes a massive difference. Buyers notice cloudy acrylic immediately.

The 45-Minute Monthly Deep Polish

Sanitizing doesn't remove embedded lotion or hard water spots. Once a month, I do a full restoration polish. I schedule this for the first Sunday of the month. Block out 45 minutes.

Step 1: Strip the Surface

Start with Novus #1 Plastic Clean and Shine. Spray it generously over the entire acrylic shield. Let it sit for exactly two minutes. This breaks down the polymerized tanning lotion. Wipe it away with a clean microfiber towel using firm pressure.

Step 2: Remove the Haze

Now apply Novus #2 Fine Scratch Remover. Put a quarter-sized drop on your cloth. Rub it into the acrylic using tight, overlapping circular motions. I spend about three minutes on the main body area where my torso rests. This is where the most lotion builds up. The acrylic will look cloudy while you work. Don't panic. Keep buffing until the residue turns into a fine, dry powder.

Step 3: Seal and Protect

Finish with Novus #3 Heavy Scratch Remover if you have deep gouges. If the bed is in good shape, skip to a final wipe with Novus #1. This leaves an anti-static coating. Dust won't stick to it for weeks. Your bed will look brand new.

Cleaning the Bulbs and Reflectors

People forget about the bulbs. Dust blocks UV output. I clean my bulbs every six months. Make sure the bed is unplugged and the bulbs are completely cold.

Take a dry, lint-free microfiber cloth. Gently wipe each bulb from end to end. Never touch the glass with your bare fingers. The natural oils from your skin will create hot spots on the bulb and drastically shorten its lifespan. If a bulb has a white, chalky buildup, it's failing. Replace it. Don't try to scrub it off.

For the reflectors behind the bulbs, use a damp cloth with plain water. Wring it out until it's almost dry. Wipe the aluminum gently. Never use chemical cleaners on the reflectors. The chemicals will strip the mirrored coating and ruin your tanning efficiency.

Tanning Bed Cleaner Comparison

I've tested almost everything on the market. Here is how the top brands stack up in my home salon.

Brand / Product	Price Range	Best For	Scent
Lucasol One Step	$20 - $25 / Gal	Daily sanitizing	Mild, clinical
Australian Gold	$12 - $15 / 16oz	Quick wipe downs	Sweet, fruity
Novus Polish Kit	$25 - $30 / Kit	Deep scratch removal	Chemical, sharp
SpaCleanse	$18 - $22 / 32oz	Lotion breakdown	Citrus, fresh

Tanning Bed Cleaning Mistakes to Avoid

I see beginners make the same errors constantly. Avoid these at all costs.

Using Paper Towels: They contain wood fibers. They act like sandpaper on warm acrylic. Throw them away.
Spraying Directly on Seams: Liquid seeps into the silicone seals. It causes the seals to dry rot and crack. Always spray your cloth first when working near the edges.
Ignoring the Exterior Vinyl: The vinyl padding absorbs sweat. If you don't wipe it down with a mild soap solution weekly, it will crack and peel within two years. I use a damp cloth with a drop of Dawn dish soap.
Cleaning Hot Acrylic: If you spray cold cleaner on 110°F acrylic, the thermal shock can cause micro-fractures. Always wait for the bed to cool down.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I clean my tanning bed?

You must sanitize the acrylic surface after every single tanning session to prevent bacterial transfer and skin infections. I perform a quick five-minute wipe down immediately after I step out. Then, I do a thorough deep polish on the first Sunday of every month.

Can I use Windex or standard glass cleaner on tanning bed acrylic?

Never use Windex or any ammonia-based glass cleaner on your tanning bed. Ammonia chemically reacts with the specialized acrylic polymers, causing permanent clouding and micro-fractures known as crazing. Stick to dedicated, non-ammonia tanning bed sanitizers like Lucasol or Australian Gold.

How do I remove white hazy spots from the tanning acrylic?

Those hazy spots are usually caused by tanning lotions baking into the acrylic under high heat. I fix this by applying Novus #2 Fine Scratch Remover to a clean microfiber cloth and buffing the area in circular motions for about three minutes. If the haze persists, you might need to step up to a heavier compound, but the Novus system resolves ninety percent of these issues.

Do I need to clean the tanning bulbs themselves?

Yes, but you should only clean the bulbs once every three to six months when they are completely cool. I use a dry, lint-free microfiber cloth to gently wipe away dust, making sure I never touch the glass with my bare fingers. The natural oils from your skin will create hot spots on the bulb and drastically shorten its lifespan.