
Proven Grout Buying Guide 2026: Best Types & Tips
Overview
Grout breaks. I've ruined a $400 marble backsplash by picking the wrong sanded mix, and it cost me an entire weekend to chisel it out with a rotary tool. This grout buying guide breaks down exactly what you need for every room, from high-traffic mudrooms to delicate glass shower enclosures. We cover cement. Then we tackle epoxy and urethane options. I'll share the exact brands I trust after 12 years of flipping houses, because buying the wrong bucket will literally ruin your installation. You'll learn why spending $60 on urethane saves you hours of scrubbing later. Let's get your tile looking flawless.
Key Information
Cementitious Grout: The Old Reliable
Cement grout is the standard. It's cheap, widely available, and comes in dozens of colors. Custom Building Products Polyblend is my go-to for standard jobs. It costs about $15 to $25 for a 25-pound bag at any big box store. You have two choices here. Sanded grout contains fine silica sand and is meant for wider joints between 1/8 inch and 1/2 inch. The sand prevents shrinkage and cracking in those larger gaps. Unsanded grout is smooth. You use it for tight joints between 1/16 inch and 1/8 inch. If you use sanded grout on polished marble or glass, you'll scratch the surface. I learned that the hard way on a master bath remodel. Cement grout is porous, meaning it absorbs water and stains easily. You absolutely must seal it after it cures.
Epoxy Grout: The Indestructible Option
Epoxy is a beast. I've seen pros cry trying to trowel it before it cures. But once it sets, you'll never scrub mold out of your shower joints again. Laticrete Spectralock PRO is the gold standard here. It runs $65 to $85 per kit, which includes the resin, hardener, and color powder. It's basically colored plastic. After hosting a dinner party, you'll inevitably spill red wine on the kitchen floor. With epoxy, you just wipe it up. It doesn't stain. It doesn't absorb water. The catch is the pot life. You have exactly 45 minutes to work with it at 70°F. If your house is 85°F in the summer, that window shrinks to 20 minutes. Work fast and keep your tools clean.
Urethane Grout: The Modern Sweet Spot
This isn't the cheapest option, but it saves you from resealing every year. Urethane grout comes premixed in a bucket. Mapei Flexcolor CQ and Tec Power Grout are my top picks. A gallon costs between $45 and $55. It uses acrylic and polyurethane resins instead of cement. This makes it naturally stain-resistant and flexible. Flexibility is huge. Houses settle and floors bounce. Cement grout cracks when the subfloor moves. Urethane stretches slightly, keeping your joints intact. It also requires zero sealing. You just open the bucket, trowel it in, and wash it off. It cures by evaporation, so you need to keep it dry for 72 hours.
Grout Color Selection
Color changes everything. Bright white grout looks amazing on day one. By month six, it turns yellow near the stove and gray in the entryway. If you have kids who track mud everywhere into the mudroom, skip the white cementitious grout. Go for a mid-tone gray or taupe. Custom Building Products #180 Earth or #380 Haystack are excellent camouflage colors. They hide dirt beautifully while still providing a clean look. If you want a seamless look, match the grout to the tile exactly. If you want to highlight the pattern, use a contrasting color. Just remember that high contrast highlights every single crooked tile edge.
| Grout Type | Price Range | Best For | Sealing Required? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cementitious (Sanded/Unsanded) | $15 - $25 / 25lb | Standard floors, dry walls | Yes |
| Epoxy | $65 - $85 / kit | Showers, commercial kitchens | No |
| Urethane (Premixed) | $45 - $55 / gal | Bathrooms, backsplashes, DIY | No |
Practical Steps or Recommendations
1. Measure Your Joint Width Precisely
Don't guess. Buy a cheap digital caliper for $15 and measure the actual gap between your tiles. Tile sizes vary slightly, even from the same box. If your gap fluctuates between 1/8 inch and 3/16 inch, you must use sanded grout. Using unsanded in a 3/16 inch joint will result in severe shrinkage cracks within a month. I always measure at least five different spots on the wall before buying.
2. Match the Grout to the Tile Material
Material dictates your choice. Polished marble, glass, and soft limestone require unsanded or urethane grout. The sand in standard grout will permanently scratch these surfaces. For standard ceramic and porcelain, sanded is perfectly fine. If you are installing large format tiles (anything over 15 inches on one side), you'll likely have wider joints that demand sanded grout for structural integrity.
3. Calculate Coverage Accurately
Running out of grout mid-job is a nightmare. The formula depends on tile size, thickness, and joint width. For standard 12x24 inch tiles with a 1/8 inch joint and 3/8 inch thickness, you'll use about 4 pounds of grout per 100 square feet. Most 25-pound bags cover roughly 600 square feet at those dimensions. Always use the manufacturer's coverage chart on the back of the bag, as densities vary wildly between brands.
4. Buy 15% Extra for Batch Variations
Always buy 15% more than your calculated amount. If you run out and have to go back to the store, the new batch might have a slightly different dye lot. This results in visible color banding across your floor. I keep the extra bag sealed in my garage. If a tile cracks three years from now, I'll have the exact matching grout to fix the repair.
5. Get the Right Tools
Tools matter. For cement and urethane, use a standard rubber float with a 70-durometer pad. For epoxy, you need a specific epoxy float with a firmer 80-durometer pad to push the thick material into the joints. Buy a high-quality microfiber sponge. The cheap yellow sponges from the hardware store leave behind a hazy film that takes hours to buff off.
Common Mistakes
Adding Too Much Water
This is the most common DIY disaster. You mix the grout, it looks too thick, so you add a splash of water. Don't do it. Excess water weakens the chemical bonds, leading to powdery, crumbling grout that flakes out of the joints. I'll be honest, this takes elbow grease if you mess up the slurry ratio. If it's too stiff, let it slake (rest) for 10 minutes, then remix it without adding water. It will loosen up perfectly.
Ignoring Temperature and Pot Life
Heat accelerates curing. Cold slows it down. If you are working in a 90°F room, your cement grout will skin over in 20 minutes instead of the usual 45. Keep your mixing water cold. Keep the bags of grout in an air-conditioned room until you need them. When your landlord inspects next week, you don't want them seeing pink mold in the shower corners because you used unsealed cement grout in a hot, humid environment where it failed to cure properly.
Skipping the Sealer on Cement Grout
Cement is basically a hard sponge. If you don't seal it, it will absorb mop water, dirt, and soap scum. Wait 72 hours after installation for the grout to fully cure. Then, apply a high-quality penetrating sealer like Aqua Mix Sealer's Choice Gold. Apply two coats, waiting 30 minutes between them. Wipe off any excess that gets on the tile surface, or it will dry into a cloudy, sticky mess.
Washing Too Early
Patience pays off. After you trowel the grout in, wait until it becomes firm and hazy before you start sponging. If you sponge too early, you'll pull the wet grout right out of the joints, creating low spots and divots. I usually wait 20 to 30 minutes depending on the humidity. Test it by pressing your thumb lightly into a joint. If it leaves a mark, wait longer.
FAQ
Can I use sanded grout on glass tile?
No, you shouldn't use sanded grout on glass tile. The silica sand particles act like sandpaper and will permanently scratch the delicate glass surface during application. Always stick to unsanded cement or a smooth urethane mix for glass installations.
How long does urethane grout take to cure?
Most premixed urethane grouts require a full 72 hours to cure before you expose them to water. I always wait a full week before letting anyone use the shower, just to be completely safe. If you rush this process, the grout can wash right out of the joints.
Is epoxy grout worth the extra cost?
Epoxy is absolutely worth the $65 to $85 price tag for wet areas like shower floors. It never needs sealing and completely resists mold, mildew, and harsh chemical cleaners. You will save dozens of hours of scrubbing over the next decade.
Do I need to seal premixed urethane grout?
You don't need to seal premixed urethane grout at all. The acrylic and polyurethane resins make it naturally stain-resistant right out of the bucket. Save your money and skip the penetrating sealer step entirely.









